Leg 3, Azores to Gibraltar

Tuesday July 3, 2007. Departure day for leg 3, Azores to Gibraltar.

Departure day had been set for Monday, July 2, but was delayed for a day to give the large sea swells another day to settle down. The extra day was appreciated as provisioning would have been difficult on a Sunday for a Monday departure with many stores closed either all day or on Sunday afternoon. Monday then was spent on “pink or blue jobs”, either provisioning or in the engine room.

Scheduled to depart at 10 AM, we were a little late due to a rafted sailboat not being able to start its engine to move away from Bluewater. With a lot of coaching and hand signals, finally they pulled the boat forward to raft to the next sailboat along the quay.

Sailboats are the norm here. We three Nordhavns are three of only four motor yachts we’ve seen here. A Marine Trader (make of trawler) was here until yesterday. Not known for long passasgemaking capabilities, this boat came directly from Florida, with 9 fifty-five gallon drums of diesel fuel on its deck. The owner, an older gentleman, made light of the trip, and said he was on the way to Brussels,, Belgium. He left yesterday, with all nine drums again on deck, filled with fuel.

The two marinas, old and new, are filled with sailing vessels of all sizes, descriptions, and levels of upkeep. Our dockage fees for the eight days we were in Horta totaled 175.20 Euros, or around $225, the amount we spent per night in Bermuda. So, of course it would be popular with sailors, well known to have “tight pockets”.

Shortly after our departure around 10:30 AM Dennis did a quick engine room check and discovered a very hot stuffing box. We had just a few days ago added more packing to this water seal around the spinning drive shaft to slow a persistent water leak. I guess we overdid it. Thirty minutes in the engine room with a hot main engine shut down, wing engine running at full speed, and spinning shaft was needed to fix the problem. Hourly checks since then have shown the problem to be fixed.

Day 1, third leg, Azores to Gibraltar

Tuesday July 3, 2007

L and L 29.87 X 28.70

Miles today- 13

Miles this leg- 13

Clear and sunny. First 50 or so miles in clear view of Pico an island we toured just a couple of days ago with its 7,500 foot summit with volcanic peaks.

Calm seas.

Day 2, third leg, 1200 hours

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

L and L- 31.49 X 25.00

Miles previous 24 hours- 162

Accum. miles this leg- 175

Partly cloudy all day, seas calmed to nearly no swells.

Two small tuna caught during AM. Cleaned as whole fish with heads and tails off.

 Small fireworks show put on with out of date flares during evening. Dennis slept through it.

Day 3, third leg, 1200 hours

Thursday, July 5, 2007

L and L- 38.40  X 2130

Miles in previous 24 hours- 164

Miles this leg to date-  339

Caught a nice 20 pound or so tuna late yesterday afternoon. David landed it and it was cut up into into steaks. Ate the previous 2 fish for dinner. Esther baked ours and David fried theirs. We are eating our main supper meal in shifts now to accommodate watch schedules and avoid having to carry everything up to the wheel house.

Skies continue overcast with occasional showers and very slight swells. More weather is forcast for nearer Spain’s mainland so we are continuing directly east more than the rhumb line would carry us. The idea to get more easting so when the heavier winds, up to 25 forecast come from the north we will have winds and seas behind us.

Just prior to noon Dennis was roused from the sack by David, who had hooked a double on Bigeye Tuna. Each about 20 pounds.

Day 4, third leg, 1200 hours

Friday, July 6, 2007

L and L- 38.51 X 17.59

Miles previous 24 hours- 165

Miles this leg to date- 504

Seas slightly rougher than earlier, now coming from our port bow quarter, so feeling a little more motion. Sun came out this late morning for the first time since we left Pico in the Azores.

The other two boats are a little obsessed with seeing how far away they can identify AIS radar targets. Out set up is not so discerning, and this morning David was surprised to see a huge tanker  on a parallel course just a mile or so away. We’ve been relying so much on the other two radars that perhaps we’ve been a little lax on watch?

Day 5, third leg, 1200 hours

Saturday, July 7

L and L- 38.54 X 14.43

Miles in previous 24 hours- 154

Miles this leg to date- 658

Seas continue moderate, but cloudy weather persists. Its cooler than anyone thought it would be here, with highs around 70 degrees.

Day 6, third leg, 1200 hours

Sunday, July 8, 2007

L and L-  37.42 X 11.34

Miles in previous 24 hours- 162

Miles this leg- 824

Sunny and mild with calm seas until around 4 PM when they begin to build. Caught two small tuna during mid-day. Threw away one, but kept and dressed the second for a lunch.

By 6 PM the winds were 20-25  and still building. By midnight 30 knots and gusts to 40, seas up to 12 feet. We had already turned south, perhaps too early as we now had seas and winds from just forward of the port beam.

Day 7, third leg, 1200 hours

Monday, July 9, 2007

L and L- 36.19 X 08.54

Miles in previous 24 hours- 157

Miles this leg- 981

During the night we had to alter course to starboard about 10-20 degrees to keep the beam seas from rolling us too much. Christine’s boat took a roll so severely that lots of blue water made it into the engine room through a vent located perhaps four feet above the sole of the aft cockpit. Our largest roll was perhaps 30 degrees.

Way too rough to fish! In all with winds blew for perhaps 30 hours steadily at above 30, with the occasional gust to 40.

Day 8, third leg, 1200 hours

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

L and L- 36.02 X 05.47

Miles previous 24 hours- 157

Miles this leg-  1,138

Everyone excited about landfall. Spanish coast visible on the port side.

Last night we had to cross the busy shipping lanes, as we were on the east or south side of this very high traffic area, and needed to be on the north side as we entered the Straights of Gibraltar, and in the smaller boat passageway favoring the north side. With the AIS informational system working for us we were able to cut across the shipping lanes at perhaps a 30 degree angle. Earlier we had encountered some transmission problems with our AIS, it having cut out sending information on our boat’s location and speed to other vessels. Out tech person, Esther walked David through the fixing of yet another problem.

By early AM the Spanish coast was clearly visible, with dry hills, and very undeveloped tall and dry looking fields and rugged landscapes.

We passed through the Straights of Gibraltar at around noon, formed up for a photo shoot at the Spanish  point Tarifa. Another Nordhavn owner was to be there taking photos of the three vessels as close together as we dared to get, perhaps a boat length of so apart.

As en entered the Bay of Gibraltar we did another photo shoot with the partially cloud enshrouded Rock of Gibraltar in the background.

Around 6 PM we finally tied up alongside the Marina Bay Marina, one of Gibraltar’s several marinas. Following getting tied up a nice small champagne toast was held for us by the marina staff.

From Milt Baker’s last post to Passagemeking Under Power

“BULLETIN: MED BOUND YACHTS ARRIVE IN GIBRALTAR

Our three Med Bound yachts arrived safely at Marina Bay, Gibraltar, at 1600 local today. Sonaia Hermida, first mate of the NAR N57 Goleen, was at Tarifa to photograph our passage into the Strait of Gibraltar, and she met us on the pier camera-in-hand. We all (except sleeping George) celebrated in the dock office with champagne and again over dinner (George came this time) at the head of the pier. What a great experience--both the crossing and the celebrations!

Our two Nordhavn 55s and one Nordhavn 47 have safely and successfully completed our Atlantic crossing, our 11 crewmembers (and two dogs) now thinking, "This was not a big deal." Nonetheless, we all feel a great sense of accomplishment and are delighted that we have done what so few human beings ever get to do: crossing an ocean aboard a small, well-found yacht. And lived to tell about it!

Seriously, the sense of satisfaction is overwhelming. We owe so much to so many for making this happen! More soon I hope. Meanwhile, time to shift gears from ocean-crossing-mode to Mediterranean-cruising-mode, something we all look forward to with great eagerness.”

Statistics, this leg- 1,153 miles, 169 engine hours, 762 gallons fuel, including gen-set use.

Miles per gallon- 1153/762=1.51

Miles per hour-    1153/169=6.82

Gallons per hour  762/169=4.51

Statistics total trip, Ft. Lauderdale, FL to Gibraltar

3,089 miles, 608 engine hours, 2,721 gallons fuel, including gen-set use

Miles per gallon-  3,989/2,721=1.47

Miles per hour-    3,989/608= 6.56

Gallons per hour-2,721/608=4.47

Items

Sunday, July 8^th the winds began to pick up late in the afternoon. When they reached a steady 20 knots, we secured all loose items, and prepared for a bumpy ride.  Dennis and I tried sleeping in our bed but were being tossed about too much, so at 9 PM we moved to the pilot house berth. The winds kept building through the night to a steady 25-27 knots with frequent 30 knot gusts and one measured at 42 knots.  Seas rose from a comfortable 4-6 to around 10-12 later. The wind direction was just aft of the port beam.  This was a tolerable ride until the highest of winds about 1:00 AM. 

My watch started at 2:00 AM, on Monday July 9th, but I woke Dennis to be with me.  He quickly made the decision to alter course 10 degrees to the south to put the wind more directly on our stern to eliminate “some” the rolling.  Dennis contacted Moana Kuewa and announced our intention.  Captain Christine said she was in favor as they had just taken a dramatic roll that knocked every one out of bed.  They also took on water in the engine room through a rear vent which is about 5’ above the aft deck. (Rogue wave, we didn’t experience anything like that.) Dennis then contacted Bluewater and asked Judy, who was on watch, to wake Milt, the leader of the group.  Dennis stated our plan and Milt agreed to do the same.  

A 10 degree course change made for a “more” comfortable ride.  Leaving Dennis in the helm chair, the most comfortable place in the boat, complete with seat belt, I, with the aid of many pillows, wedged my self on the pilot house settee.  Here I was able to cat nap.  After 2 hours, I took the helm seat.  Bracing feet against the control console I felt like I was on a slow circus ride, up and down, back and forward, but feeling pretty secure.  I like the darkness and not seeing the sea out the wheel house windows.  At daylight, I was more uncomfortable.  In the pilot house one is about 15’ off the water.  When the boat is rolling off a wave, looking out the starboard window, down at the water, it feels like looking down from the 2^nd story.  I have no problem with the movement if I look in the opposite direction at the on coming wave rather than the receding wave. Go figure.  This is my experience, they others will speak for them selves.

During the day, we opted to do 2 hour watches as it was so intense.

We reached our waypoint south of the separated (east and west) shipping lanes at Cabo De Sao Vincente, Portugal late Monday afternoon. There is heavy commercial traffic from this point into the Mediterranean.  We traveled the southern side of the easterly traffic lane.  It was great having 3 sets of eyes all on watch and we were in constant communication between all three boats about vessels coming up behind us. By late afternoon, the winds decreased to 15 knots and the seas flattened, with about 200 miles to go to reach Gibraltar.

David and I were playing, actually trying to learn, a new function on the AIS, the system which sends and receives the details on all boats with this service.  To reset, we turned the system off and back on.  Bluewater notified us via radio that our AIS info had dropped off their screen; we were still on radar but without the detailed information.  David and I now worked at resolving this issue. I read the manual as David pushed the buttons. NO CHANGE.  This keyboard/screen is mounted above the pilot house windows and is not easily accessible.  David was on his knees on the console shelf, not a comfortable position.  So after 2 attempts we took a break.  Again, this was not a hazardous situation as we still showed up on radar screen of other boats, just without the details such as boat name, size, destination, etc., etc.

However, I was not content and kept rereading the manual.  When David’s knees recuperated, he returned and we tried again.  After several attempts, of what appeared to us the same steps, we received a call from Bluewater, stating “Congratulations, your info is now transmitting!”  We were thrilled.

Then we discovered that we had not only resolved the current issue, we had also resolved another issue, that of limited reception.  While Moana Kuewa was receiving information on boats in excess of 50 miles and Bluewater on boats, up to 15 miles away, Salty Dawg was receiving info on boats less than 6 miles away.  AND now, suddenly, Salty Dawg was receiving information on boats up to 50 miles away.   The screen was covered with little yellow rectangles containing boat names.  If one clicks on the box, a window comes up that shows a great deal of detail: name, size of vessel, course, speed, port of call, destination, etc., etc.   Now we were really thrilled with high fives between David and me.

It was a beautiful evening and we were all excited about reaching land the next day as well as thinking we’d have a good night’s sleep.

Tuesday, July 10^th, I got up for my 2:00AM watch and found that we were now on the north side of the separated shipping lanes in the small boat channel.  The only traffic would be westerly traffic on our starboard side, EXCEPT for the fishing boats.   The winds were light and the seas calm.

And sleeping was good.

About 4:20 AM a LOUD alarm on the VHF radio sounded.  I fumbled with the radio (tuned to our group communication frequency) to turn the alarm off with no success.  Then I realized it was coming from the secondary radio which is tuned into channel 16, the international hailing frequency and turned it off, but not before it woke Dennis.  Lowie and David had just gone off watch and were probably in deep sleep or too tired to come to my rescue. 

Dennis volunteered to finish my watch and I did not argue. I went to bed and read for a few minutes before shutting the light off at 5:00 AM.  I was rudely awakened by water slapping on the haul and the uncomfortable motion of the boat pitching into head seas.  I climbed the stairs to the pilot house, with my pillow in hand, heading for the pilot house berth.  Dennis informed me that the wind came up suddenly from the east and was blowing a steady 20 knots.  The wind was opposing the current and made short choppy waves.

No one was going to sleep through this.  When prone, the body is constantly moving. This is not restful.  I decided to hang in there and go for quantity and not quality of sleep.  I gave up at 10:00 AM.

It was a beautiful day and gradually the early morning haze lifted and revealed the coast of Spain.  Very arid and reminded us of the beautiful Southwest.  We passed Tairifa, Spain, the southern most point of Spain about 2:00 PM.  A friend of Bluewater was at the Fort to take pictures as we passed by.  We continued on through the straights of Gibraltar and into the Mediterranean.   The clouds obscuring “The Rock” mostly lifted by the time we cruised by them, allowing another picture opportunity.  Having a very serious Photo Czar (Captain Christine on MK) we have missed no photo opts.

With pictures taken, congratulations given to each other on a great passage, special thanks to Milt for his organization, three Nordhavns turned north into the harbor.  By 4:30 (who knows for sure) we were securely docked to the quay at Marina Bay Marina.  Another Agent greeted us, took our papers and proceeded to customs.  He returned with clearances.  The “Q” flag was lowered and the British Ensign raised, and the on board bar opened.

 In short time, the very friendly Marina staff announced they had champagne for us.  We gathered in their office and toasted our arrival.

Most of the group made plans to go out to dinner at 7:30.  Dennis and I opted to go by ourselves much earlier and were “home” in bed by 8:00 PM.